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Modern Sauces: More than 150 Recipes for Every Cook, Every Day, by Martha Holmberg
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This is the book for cooks who want to take their cooking to a whole new level. Martha Holmberg was trained at La Varenne and is an award-winning food writer. Her look at this sometimes-intimidating genre—expressed in clear, short bites of information and through dozens of process photographs—delivers the skill of great sauce-making to every kind of cook, from beginners to those more accomplished who wish to expand their repertoire. More than 100 recipes for sauces range from standards such as béarnaise, hollandaise, and marinara to modern riffs such as maple-rum sabayon, caramelized onion coulis, and coconut-curry spiked chocolate sauce. An additional 55 recipes use the sauces to their greatest advantage, beautifying pasta, complementing meat or fish, or elevating a cake to brilliant. Modern Sauces is both an inspiration and a timeless reference on kitchen technique.
- Sales Rank: #34162 in Books
- Published on: 2012-10-17
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.25" h x 1.00" w x 8.25" l, 2.80 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
Amazon.com Review
Featured Recipe: Fried Eggs with Garlicky Chard and Saffron-Red Pepper Hollandaise
Here is another recipe created by my friend Matthew Card. It’s a riff on eggs Florentine (eggs Benedict but with spinach instead of Canadian bacon or ham) and, like every dish he makes, it is turbocharged with flavor. It would also be delicious with any of the other sauces in this chapter, so feel free to experiment.
Avoid using a hard-crusted bread here. If you can’t find focaccia, substitute something tender and flavorful, such as brioche or a soft Italian loaf. Peppadew peppers, which originated in South Africa, are sweet, tangy, and only modestly hot. They are pickled and sold in jars in the deli section of well-stocked grocery stores.
Serves 4
Ingredients
- Kosher salt
- 1 large bunch Rainbow or Bright Lights Swiss chard (12 oz/340 g), leaves and stems separated and stems cut crosswise into slices ¼ in/6 mm thick
- 4 tbsp/60 ml extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- Pinch of Espelette pepper or red pepper flakes
- ½ cup/80 g thinly sliced jarred roasted red pepper
- 4 tsp minced pickled Peppadew pepper
- 4 large eggs
- 4 pieces focaccia, toasted
- 1 cup/240 ml Saffron–Red Pepper Hollandaise
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chard leaves (not the stems) and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, rinse well with cold water, and squeeze out as much excess water as possible. Chop coarsely and set aside.
In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, heat 3 tbsp of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chard stems and a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Add the garlic and Espelette pepper and cook, stirring, until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the cooked chard leaves, roasted pepper, and Peppadew pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the flavors are blended and the chard is hot, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and cover to keep warm. Do not rinse the pan.
Break each egg into a small teacup. Return the frying pan to low heat and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Carefully slide the eggs from the teacups into the pan so they stay whole. Season them with salt, cover the pan, and cook until the eggs are just set, 2 to 3 minutes.
Place a piece of focaccia on each plate, divide the chard mixture evenly among the focaccia, top with an egg, and then spoon a generous blanket of the warm hollandaise over the top. Serve right away.
Review
"Modern Sauces is my favorite book this year. It is destined to be a classic reference for the rest of my cooking life, on one of the most valuable but least understood facets of cooking: sauces. Martha Holmberg brings great intelligence and lucid writing and instructions to the important craft of sauces. She is both respectful of and illuminating about classic sauces, innovative in her thinking about contemporary sauces, and practical in terms of everyday cooking. This is a great book." - Michael Ruhlman, author of Twenty, Ratio and Salumi
"Food writer, editor, and Paris-trained chef Holmberg (Crepes) believes sauces are an integral part of everyday cooking. With these 100-plus recipes, organized by ingredient and method (e.g., Vinaigrettes, Chocolate Sauces), she shows readers that sauce-making doesn't have to be tedious. In a clear and encouraging voice, she explains how to season, store, portion, and improvise on classic sauces that elevate such dishes as Fried Eggs with Garlicky Chard and Saffron-Red Pepper Hollandaise and Simple and Delicious Enchiladas. VERDICT Easily Holmberg's best cookbook to date, this uses delicious recipes-like the outstanding Rice Pudding with Cardamom Meringues, Lime Crème Anglaise, and Chunky Mixed-Berry Coulis-to put essential skills in context." - Library Journal
"Here's a book you'll use every day whether you're tossing together a quick salad or creating a dessert for a gala. Martha Holmberg's truly modern (read: simple, fast and tasty) sauces pump up the flavor and excitement of every dish. Think of these sauces as a culinary bag of tricks . I do." - Dorie Greenspan, author of Around My French Table
About the Author
Martha Holmberg is an award-winning food writer and editor who developed expert sauce-making technique during three years of study and work at La Varenne Cooking School in Paris, then as the publisher and editor of Fine Cooking magazine and, most recently, as the food editor of the Oregonian newspaper. She is also the author of Crepes and Puff, both published by Chronicle Books. She lives in Portland, Oregon.
Ellen Silverman is a New York-based food and lifestyle photographer. Her previous work for Chronicle Books includes Handheld Pies.
Most helpful customer reviews
100 of 106 people found the following review helpful.
I wish I had this sauce "handbook" when I was young
By I Do The Speed Limit
As it is, I learned to make and finesse my sauces the hard way: Through trial and error, a lot of thought, much experimentation, several fairly useless sauce books--and even some tears (Oh, I remember some anguished, rushed, minutes when I'd be cooking for company!). Except for one time when I actually let a roux burn, I've never dumped a sauce in frustration. I've worked with it, learned from it, and made it into something we could eat. But, sometimes it wasn't fun. Sometimes it wasn't pretty....(my responses nor the sauce...). Thinking back, I guess I also burnt some caramel, too!
So, if you are looking to learn the why and wherefore of sauces--both savory and sweet, take it from me: Here is a terrific guide, written by a fantastic female chef who obviously loves to teach and coach. Her sense of humor also shines through every once in a while, too. You'd be crazy to pass by this opportunity, and the sooner you buy it, the better. (It won't do to borrow it from the library, as you'll want to refer to it often.)
I was a bit skeptical of this book--I am a tough critic--when the author started out with vinaigrette. I guess I don't like vinaigrette being termed a "sauce", and I didn't like pages of the book being wasted on dressings for salads. But there are some decent recipes in that chapter. At this time of year, I always have oranges on my countertop and paprika in my pantry; so (for me) there's at least one recipe in that chapter that works very well.
But she won me over in the chapter that discusses gravies. When she talks about the situation when a roast provides no juices on which to base your gravy, well, she "hit the nail on the head": She was talking about a down-to-earth, happens-in-any-home-kitchen, with any kind of roast, dilemma: What, this happens to other people, too? Not just me? (What a relief!) What to do? How do you make a gravy without any flavorful juices? In my many years of cooking, I've run into the problem often enough to have come up with some preventive measures and also some innovative fixes. This author suggests the same "insurance" measures, plus gave me even more ideas.
Why I dinged it one star: It's hard to recognize pairings for the sauces. You have to read (and then memorize) the hints and comments provided with each sauce recipe for ideas on what to use the sauce with, or you need to look further into the chapter to find a recipe that uses the sauce. Okay, so I'm finding it hard to explain exactly what I mean by this, so here is an example: The other day I had several boneless chicken breasts that I wanted to use. I didn't want to spend much time trying to develop the flavor of the meat itself, but I wanted to create a beautiful sauce to pair over a very neutral, but very succulent white meat. I wanted the sauce to shine and act as a counterpoint for the white meat chicken. I went looking for a sauce recipe on which to spend my time. I looked through the index of this book, didn't see anything I could use, and went on to another cookbook. While looking through "Modern Sauces" again today to study it further, what did I find? The perfect sauce recipe for my chicken breasts that I cooked the other day: A Lime-Brown Butter Hollandaise. So, what I'm saying is: This cookbook is wonderful, but kind of hard to use when I'm trying to create a dish. I'm thinking that the tables will turn when I start to memorize the recipes in this book, but that will take a lot of time.
Just a little gripe: Personally, I would have liked to see more savory sauce recipes and less dessert sauces. Not that there were more "sweet" sauces than savory, but I just wanted more sauces for the main meal. Actually, I would have loved one cookbook for savory sauces and another cookbook for dessert sauces. I would have bought both books.
I think the portion sizes are on the skimpy side: People who like sauces, tend to like more than a tablespoon of it. I know, that's an old-fashioned view in this streamlined world we now live in, but it's my opinion and I'm sticking to it. Of course, you can double any recipe, so that's not a big issue.
I'm very happy that I bought this cookbook and look forward to seeing another by this author.
55 of 57 people found the following review helpful.
At Home Cooking Class
By Eric Seitz
Modern Sauces by Martha Holmberg is the best reference on how to make delicious sauces I have purchased to date. Definitely purchase the hardback, you'll be cooking sauces around it. The book covers many, many sauces
1. Vinaigrette's
2. Herb sauces
3. Tomato sauces
4. Vegetable, Chile, and Nut Sauces
5. Butter Sauces (yumm)
6. Cream Sauces
7. Hollandaise Sauces
8. Gravy, Jus, and Pan Sauces
9. Sabayon Sauces
10. Custard Sauces
11. Fruit Sauces
12. Carmel Sauces
13. Chocolate Sauces
Recipes included with each sauce section that incorporates some of the sauces is a big help, more recipes would have been nice. Additionally there are many helpful notes from the author. This book really has it covered when it comes to sauces. I recommend you add it to your collection.
E.Seitz
Pleasant Hill, Oregon
28 of 29 people found the following review helpful.
Great resource, delightful read.
By EDS
Context. Yes, there are great recipes and pictures to make your mouth water, but what sets this book apart is the context that Ms Holmberg provides. There are 150 recipes that are interesting, tempting, and USEFUL because this very experienced writer and cook shares her brilliant insights, tips, and inspirations. Another plus, the ingredients are fresh and healthy and stuff normal people would have in their pantry or at their local market. I have tried some of the recipes already and have enjoyed reading many more. This will be my go-to gift this holiday season.
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